A recipe for shrimp with leeks and ginger, and something more
This one is what it sounds, and looks, like, though at this point, I’m relying on my notes, not my memory, because I made it a couple of months ago. It’s also yet another recipe I’ve taken on only to discover after the fact that it was attributed to Mark Bittman. This means that my first question, which I initially directed towards my father, should have actually been towards a different source, namely: why is the ginger put in so late? And why is there no direction that indicates when to add the soy sauce? This is very rude even to an “optional” ingredient, who we simply cannot make feel unwelcome.
Not that it matters much; this is easy enough that any tweaks would probably end up fine. Ultimately, I chopped up too much ginger, because it was going bad. It was gently suggested that I not include it all (I put the rest in a baggie in the fridge and it actually kept fairly well). We also had some bok choy, which I added before the leeks, and that fleshed out the meal. Cook the bottoms of the bok choy first, and then, once those have browned a bit, add the leaves. This allows enough time for the moisture to evaporate and each to get nicely browned, since they cook at different speeds. (I also do this with kale: finely chopped kale stems cooked in olive oil and salt is a great addition to so many meals—do not throw those ends away, they’re crunchy and delicious!) I added the stock and some soy sauce with the shrimp, as that seemed the moment to do it.
At firs this dish seems kind of skimpy—there are no noodles, or rice. The bok choy does some of what those could do, and you have the added benefit of a veg instead of a carb, if that’s a concern you frequent. I also took some cilantro that was going bad and sprinkled in on top.
Given how much leeks cook down, this is really more shrimp with leeks and ginger than leeks with ginger and shrimp (though it’s possible I used fewer leeks than the recipe calls for). All in all it’s very much a dish my father would have favored—though, yet again, I have no memory of eating it—as it’s delicious in its plainness and ease.
If we’re speaking of ginger, stock, and soy sauce, this seems like as good a time as any to bring up a slightly more compelling family dish, Lu Rou, or Taiwanese pork belly, which was offered up by my friend Clio via the United States Postal Service a few months back. It’s her mother’s recipe, was so so delicious and easy, and she has very kindly allowed me to reproduce it here.
Lu Rou (Taiwanese pork belly)
2 bunches of scallion (or half of leek）
4-5 lb pork belly (minced), or pork rib, or pork shoulder,
3 tablespoons rice wine,
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2-3 clove of garlic
3-4 slices of ginger
1/2 cup of soy sauce
2/3 cup of chicken broth
Star anise and Sichuan pepper (spice bag)1.) Put whole scallion or leek with garlic and ginger into the bottom of heavy pot
2.) Put the pork on top
3.) Add brown sugar, wine, spice bag, soy sauce, and then add 2/3 cup of chicken broth (or water)
4.) Bring it up to a boil then simmer it on the oven for 2-3 hours
It calls for a few pounds of minced pork belly or ribs—we had ribs, which meant the benefit of getting to enjoy some nice leftover bones to snack on the next day—and freezing does help cut the meat off the bone, as she notes. Then it’s just scallions, garlic, ginger, rice wine, brown sugar and soy sauce (the proportions of all are flexible). The spice bag was a little handcrafted sachet in cheesecloth that Clio sent with the recipe, and chicken broth is chicken broth (which I made from scratch).
You might worry that this would be too long a time for meat to cook, but its mostly at a very low heat, and there’s a lot of liquid along with the meat, which means it slowly releases its juices and becomes super tender and flavorful as it crisps. I also quick pickled some cucumber to go alongside it, and topped it with some more cilantro. This one was indeed served over rice.
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